Mileage: 14.8 miles
Driving Time: 25 minutes
Tucked in the corner of the state’s little finger is an otherworldly place surrounded by natural beauty and Native American legend. The area in and around Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is nothing short of incredible, and the quaint towns that sprung up around it are truly charming. Note: There are narrow roads in some areas and small parking lots, so taking the tow vehicle or toad would be preferable for conducting this tour.
Stop #1: The Cannery Boat Museum
Lumber may have been what gave this region a big start, but as lumbering started to wane, D.H. Day, who owned Glen Haven and a lot of acreage surrounding it, started to think about diversifying operations. Given the area’s abundant fruit production, he decided on a canning company. The company processed and shipped canned cherries, raspberries, and peaches around the Great Lakes. This historic red structure sits boldly near the Lake Michigan shoreline, a remnant from times past. Within the building now is a collection of boats, from a dug-out canoe to a surfboat that belonged to the U.S. Coast Guard, along with gear used by commercial fishermen. It doesn’t take long to walk through this little museum, which is open 11-5 from Memorial Day to Labor Day.
Stop #2: Glen Haven Beach
Looking for a more secluded beach that gives you that infinity view of Lake Michigan? From the red cannery building, walk or drive the half-mile Sleeping Bear Dunes Road, located across from the main parking lot near the cannery building. Shortly thereafter, you’ll reach a small roundabout, which is where the Sleeping Bear Point Maritime is located. We’ll come back to that later. Right now, go straight through the roundabout down a narrower dirt road, Sleeping Bear Point Trailhead. There’s a parking lot at the other end, and you’ll begin your journey at the far end of the lot opposite the bathroom. It’s a sandy walk and in the summer the sand gets quite hot, so sports sandals might be the best footwear for this particular venture. You’ll reach a fork in the trail; left takes you on a longer loop through the dunes while the right takes you on a quarter mile walk through some dunes and to the beach. The shorter hike is ideal for families with younger children who could also use a little freedom and adventure. The beach itself is sandy enough, with plenty of rocks to pick up and examine, but there are lots of rocks in the water. The water is clear and crisp and stretches out before you. Take care, during windy weather, for potential rip tides. They are rare, but they can happen. This is an enchanting beach and it is not nearly as crowded as some of the other nearby beaches. Bring some food, beverages, towels, and a Bluetooth speaker. There is little shade, so an umbrella would be a good addition.
You can see also North and South Manitou Islands offshore, and even though they look close, they are really a 90-minute boat ride away. These islands are memorials to two drowned cubs in the Legend of the Sleeping Bear. The dunes are Mother Bear herself, who reached the shore first and then kept watch for her cubs to finish the journey. When they did not, and because of her great devotion, the Great Spirit created the two islands to honor them. A story to ponder, one that shows the love of a mother.
Stop #3: Sleeping Bear Dunes Maritime Museum
After spending as much time as you wanted at the beach and getting a leg workout from hilly sand dunes, visit the nearby maritime museum, which is located at the original location of the Sleeping Bear Point U.S. Life-Saving Station. Exhibits cover the Service as well as the Coast Guard and the history of Great Lakes shipping. The second floor gives you a taste of what it’s like to be in a steamer wheelhouse. The panoramic view doesn’t hurt either! There is a suggested donation, but the museum is run by volunteers. A visit doesn’t take too long, but there is plenty to learn if you take the time. Walk around the grounds as well. Open Memorial Day to Labor Day.
Stop #4: Inspiration Point
Return to the cannery building, turn right, then turn right again on 109, take a series of small turns that lead to M22, and then right onto W. MacFarlane Road (Co Road 616). Inspiration Point gives you a bird’s eye view of the twin Glen Lakes, Alligator Hill (which has a hiking trail), and North Manitou Island. It’s a tranquil place that is worth visiting at any point of the day, though you may run into a lot of people at certain times of the day. Nearby is an old log cabin, a popular subject for photographers. The path is paved and accessible, with benches so that you can take in the beautiful scenery around you. Based on reviews by past visitors, Inspiration Point is “worth it” and a “must-see.”
Stop #5: Empire
Driving into the Village of Empire, you will find a quaint community with a few restaurants and storefronts. Stop in at Grocer’s Daughter for some delectable chocolate and house-made gelato, or wander to the little downtown area to peruse the unique shops. It’s definitely a slice of Americana. Nearby, on Wilco Road, is another popular trail: Empire Bluff Trail. This 1.5-mile roundtrip trail is a mix of sand and boardwalks and some hills as it makes its way through forests and past meadows. The trek is worth it. The end of the trail takes you to a majestic view of Lake Michigan. Time your visit to arrive before sunset (bring a flashlight for the walk back) for a one-of-a-kind experience. You’ll feel like you never want to leave this place.
While you’re in the area, visit this famous drive. If you feel inclined, from Glen Haven on 109, you can turn right into Pierce Stocking Drive for a 7.4-mile meander through part of the national lakeshore. Our driving tour offers a more extensive review of what you will find, and how much time to expect to spend if you get to explore some or all of the 12 stations found along the way.
Alternatively, go north. If you turn left out of Glen Haven, a mere 2.3 miles down the road is beautiful Glen Arbor. This once humble-lumber town has become a destination for artists, nature lovers, and those who love the Great Lakes. Visit the Glen Arbor Arts Center and Cherry Republic. Bookworms will adore wandering through The Cottage Book. Continue on the famous M22 and follow it around the Leelanau Peninsula, stopping in places like Port Oneida, Leland, Northport, and Suttons Bay. There’s a lighthouse at the tip of the peninsula, and there are wineries in abundance that offer flights and light eats.